#STILES AND RAILS ON DOORS FULL#

1″ overlay hinges (again, assuming 1 and 1/4″face frames) will give a full overlay with just enough room to allow two cabinet doors to close against each other without rubbing and/or to give adjacent doors room to open/close. This keeps the cabinet doors from hitting each other. For instance, I would use either the 1/2″ overlay hinges and use a wider face frame on the side of the frace frame where cabinets meet at a corner. Full overlays can/should be adjusted when there is an obstacle in the way. So, to get a full overlay, I, personally, use 1 and 1/4″ face frames on each cabinet box, paired with 1″ overlay hinges, and doors that are built to the width of the cabinet box. To answer your questions, let’s first keep in mind that face frame width, door width, and hinge ability all work together to dictate the final look. Since they are duplicates, I am going to just push this one through. I suggest using a scrap piece of wood to practice on, before trying to cut the actual grooves and tenons for the doors. This is just one area where I would recommend not using pocket hole screws. Those are okay if you are just starting out, but it is not too difficult to make shaker doors the correct way. I know you may have seen some DIY doors constructed using pocket hole jigs.

#STILES AND RAILS ON DOORS PROFESSIONAL#

Grooves and tenon is the method used to build professional shaker doors. Since my rails are 2″ each in width that means 30″ – 4″ + 1″ =27″ Making Grooves & Tenons for Shaker Doors… That total will be 14″ rails.įor the panels – The width will be the same as the rails (in my case 14″) and the height will be the stile’s length – (rail width x 2) + 1.

Then, add back the 1″ needed for the tenons. Or in other words, 17″ minus the 4″ width of my combined stiles. So, the formula will look like this: desired door width – (stile width x 2) + 1 = rail length. So, my stiles were cut to 30″.įor the rails – I am using 1/2″ tenons and 1/2″ grooves, and my boards are 2″ wide. In my situation, I needed doors that measure 30″ in length x 17″ in width. They will be cut the actual length desired for the finished length of the door. I will assume that you know the size that you need your cabinet doors to be, so with that in mind, let’s get to the math.

#STILES AND RAILS ON DOORS HOW TO#

How to Measure and Cut for Shaker Doors… Measuring (If using 1/2″ panels, adjustments will need to be made to these instructions). I am using these doors in an area that will receive very light treatment, so 1/4″ panels will suffice. (Tip: If you are building a kitchen cabinet door or a door that will receive a lot of harsh treatment, 1/2″ panels may be the way to go. – I am using basic birch plywood for my panels, but again I plan to paint them.

Quality 1/4″ plywood to use for the panels.

However, poplar stains up very similar to cherry. If I were going to stain these, I would probably have chosen cherry.

#STILES AND RAILS ON DOORS FREE#

Since I plan to paint these, I am not concerned with anything more than the boards being straight, flat, and free of defects. However, you will want to consider the final finish before choosing the type of wood.

Quality 3/4″ wood for the rails and stiles – I am using poplar boards from Lowes.

If you need instructions for building cabinet boxes, they can be found here. It can be done using a dado blade, but for the purpose of the beginners, I am demonstrating just using a basic blade. While there are several ways that a door can be constructed, this method is widely used and is an acceptable way to build quality shaker doors. 3) Stiles – these are the boards that run vertically across the sides of the doors. 2) Rails – these are the boards that run horizontally across the bottom and the top of the doors. Before we get started on the instructions, you will need to be familiar with safety gear (educate yourself if you don’t know what that includes) and with the parts of a door, of which there are three.ġ) The panel – obviously this is the center of the door.

Stiles and rails on doors